South of St. John’s, Route 10, the Irish Loop drive, takes you on an adventure to some of the most exciting history, culture and nature experiences you will find anywhere. This area has the world’s largest puffin colony, the world’s southern-most caribou herd, one of the first English settlements in North America, some of the world’s oldest and rarest marine fossils and a unique culture that strongly reflects the settlement of English and Irish emigrants over the past 400 years.
Explore Newfoundland’s Southern Avalon
You can explore this region by car, boat, kayak or on foot. On foot, the East Coast Trail follows the rugged coastline and will take hikers and walkers to vantage points where you will view the most breathtaking scenery, or just sit and enjoy the pristine outdoors. As the scenic drive winds its way south from the capital city you will find Bay Bulls, one of the oldest communities in the province. The community was first fortified in 1638 but was captured and burned by the French on several occasions, up until 1796. In 1696, the HMS Sapphire, a 32 gun frigate, commissioned to protect British interests in Newfoundland, came under attack by the French and was set on fire by the Captain to avoid capture. This wreck is a Provincial Historic Site.
Whales, birds and bergs
Within the neighboring communities of the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve you can hop on a tour boat and within minutes you’re in a world of natural wonders. Here, in late spring and early summer, you can see humpback whales, millions of seabirds and spectacular icebergs, all at the same time.
Whales, birds and humans all depend on capelin. This tiny, silvery fish spends most of its life in deeper waters far from shore, but in summer it swarms inshore in the untold billions to spawn. The fish roll right onto the beaches in their frenzy to reproduce, but before they reach shore the whales and seabirds gobble up whatever they can catch.
The birds, such as the colourful Atlantic Puffin, Black-Legged Kittiwake and Common Murre, time their egg laying to the arrival of the capelin to ensure food for their hatchlings. The whales remain here throughout the summer on their annual migration and icebergs are a bonus.
For more adventure, sea kayaking operators offer a paddlers dream. The coastline has sheltered harbours, spectacular scenery, abundant marine life, waterfalls and sea caves.
Camping and hiking at La Manche
South of the Irish Loop drive is the beautiful La Manche Provincial Park, knows for its interesting and varied habitat and vegetation, as well as its diverse bird life. Overnight camping is available, and there are a variety of outdoor recreation activities. While here, be sure to take the hiking trail to the old La Manche Village that was abandoned in 1966 after an enormous storm destroyed the community. See the new suspension bridge that connects the East Coast Trail to both sides of the harbour.
Just beyond the fishing village of Brigus South, you will encounter the Avalon Wilderness Reserve, one of North America’s most accessible, yet unspoiled barren lands. This reserve is home to a wide variety of wildlife including the woodland caribou and is an ideal location for canoeing, fishing and hiking. Guides are available through local tour companies.
Visit one of the oldest English settlements in North America
Further south is Ferryland, where one of the first English settlements in North America was founded in 1621 by Sir George Calvert (Lord Baltimore). For the past decade, archaeologists have been excavating his Colony of Avalon. You can take a guided tour and watch as history is uncovered. A visit to the interpretation centre and laboratory will reveal a fascinating display of artifacts. The site also contains two 17th Century Gardens and a demonstration of life in a 17th century kitchen. Ferryland is also the location of a dinner theatre, which depicts the life of the early settlers and is host to the annual Shamrock Folk Festival on the 4th weekend of July to celebrate the area’s strong Irish heritage.
Continue south to Renews, where the Mayflower made a brief stop on its way to Plymouth Rock. Here you will find a replica of Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto, built as a “mass rock”, the only one of its kind in North America. This is where mass was secretly celebrated at night when Newfoundland Roman Catholicism was suppressed in past centuries.
“Wreck of ships” and Titanic’s distress call
Further south on Route 10 is the town of Portugal Cove South, gateway to the Cape Race National Historic Site. The light station has the most powerful light on the western side of the North Atlantic. Strong ocean currents, icebergs, thick fog and high rugged cliffs earned this area the reputation of “wreck of ships”. Cape Race also has a direct connection to the Titanic disaster; since it was here that the stricken liner’s distress call was picked up and relayed to other ships in the area and to other stations down the eastern seaboard. At Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve you will find some of the most unusual and spectacular Precambrian fossils known on Earth.
Just inland from here is the southern portion of the Avalon Wilderness Reserve, with its 5000 woodland caribou. These animals migrate between Cappahayden and Peters River in the spring and are regularly seen on or near the highway.
History was made in the town of Trepassey, when Amelia Earhart departed here in 1928 as the first female to fly across the Atlantic. Just beyond Trepassey is a side road to the most southern point in Newfoundland and Labrador, Cape Pine Historic Site and the picturesque community of St. Shott’s.
Back on Route 10 you will come to St. Vincent’s Beach, an excellent place for land-based whale watching. Across from the beach is Holyrood Pond, a large fjord that is home to more than thirty species of fish.
Cape Shore Loop
 You will find a warm welcome wherever you go on the Cape Shore Loop. The dramatic coastline, sheltered coves and charming villages serve as the perfect backdrop for this scenic drive. Meet warm, fun-loving people who are friendly and hospitable.
Take Route 1 to Route 90 (Exit 35) and drive south. Start with a visit to Father Duffy’s Well day park which acts as a gateway to the region. You will love Salmonier Nature Park because here you can view wildlife in sensitively developed enclosures representing their natural habitat. This offers a rare chance to see animals such as moose, lynx, owls, arctic foxes and many more. Also, 100 species of birds, 15 mammals and 175 vascular plants have been recorded in the park. Further along Route 90 is The Wilds at Salmonier River Golf, with its magnificent 18-hole golf course, restaurant and hotel. Spectacular scenery and wilderness serve as a backdrop for a day on the fairways.
Just a few kilometres away at Colinet, visit Rocky River Fishway and see Atlantic salmon scale a salmon ladder or watch for Bald Eagles and Osprey overhead. You are at an estuary offering a unique ecosystem. There are also walking trails, picnic area and a gift shop with local crafts. A little further along, on Route 91, you come to the Cataracts Park, where deep river gorges with two cascading waterfalls provide a scenic setting for photographs. Stairs and walkways enable the visitor to descend the gorge and cross the river.
Route 92 takes you through North Harbour and on to the community of Branch as you drive through a wonderland of rivers, silent hills and barrens. The hospitality of the region is warm and the language and music are a unique reflection of the area’s Irish ancestry. Along the Cape Shore you’ll find grazing sheep, brightly coloured homes, old churches and winding lanes.
A world-famous attraction on the Cape Shore Loop is the Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve one of the most accessible seabird colonies in North America. An easy 15 minute walk along the cliff tops from the lighthouse and interpretation center is Bird Rock, a 200-foot high sea stack that is home to many species of birds. Here you can watch Black-legged Kittiwakes, Common Murres, Northern Gannets and Black Guillemots. The interpretation center is open during the summer and fall to answer questions and provide guided tours.
As you wind your way through charming villages you will hear a distinct accent reminiscent of south eastern Ireland. Experience this at summer theatre in Cuslett. Coming to Gooseberry Cove Provincial Park you can watch the waves roll onto a long, sandy beach or take a walk through the unusual rock formations that frame the cove or have a picnic on the grass.
Another half hour drive will bring you to Placentia, the largest town in the region. History buffs will be especially interested in this community and its historic sites and museum. Having first attracted 16th century Basque fishermen to its rich fishing grounds, the colony of “Plaisance” was founded by the French government in 1662 and remained as the capital of French Newfoundland. This story is told in the theatrical production “Faces of Fort Royal” performed at Castle Hill National Historic Site during the summer months. Here you will find the remains of the old fort that was occupied by both French and English. From this site there is a magnificent view of the surrounding area. In the town itself, you will find many historic buildings, including the O’Reilly Heritage House, a registered heritage structure with a fine collection of period furniture, displays of a 300-year-old Basque tombstone and the Placentia Bay Resettlement Exhibit. There is an archaeological dig, a boardwalk for a stroll along the ocean-side and an outside French oven to add to the attractions.
Near Placentia is Argentia, the gateway to Marine Atlantic’s ferry service from June to September. Argentia was home to a U. S. Military Base during World War II. At the visitor information centre see the “Argentia at War Exhibit” for a glimpse of life in Argentia before the Americans arrived, the construction of the military base and the social and economic effects of its presence. For a hike, visit the Blackland Trails.
As you leave Argentia to return to the TransCanada Highway at Whitbourne along Route 100, you can take a side trip for 24 kilometers along Route 102 to Ship Harbour and view the Atlantic Charter Monument. It was here that President Franklin D. Roosevelt and Prime Minister Winston Churchill met and discussed the charter that eventually laid the foundation for the United Nations.
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